Let There Be Light

With another long day ahead of us we left Baiona in the dark, but it’s not really 100% dark. Once your eyes get adjusted there’s ….

Marina lights

Twinkling lights of towns in the distance

Harbour entrance lights

Castle lights

Crescent moon

Fishing boat lights

Navigation buoys

Cardinal markers

Lighthouses

And sunlight slowly coming over the distant hills

It’s easier to leave a harbour in dark if you entered in daylight, as you are familiar with the layout and local traffic, often including erratic fishing boats. All harbours are generally designed to be approached in daylight or at night with red and green guiding lights and markers on the entrance. 

Our yacht also has an array of lights - not to provide better vision for us but so that other vessels can see us and know which direction we are travelling in. At the bow a red and green light, at the stern a white light and half way up the mast another white light if we are motoring rather than sailing. We also have some red cabin lights to preserve our night vision - not to advertise any special services on board!! 

In my research about cruising in Portugal I read that every visiting yacht has to pay light dues. We struggled to find a way to pay it as the online site doesn’t work and the marina office staff just shrugged their shoulders.

So at 9am I traipsed over to the Capitania Office, leaving Dave tucked up in bed. There were three other men waiting in the queue ahead of me, presumably local boat captains, but only one lady trying to manage all of our requests. When it came to my turn there was a lot of huffing and puffing, tapping on the keyboard, shouting at the screen then a phone call to a colleague asking for advice - computer obviously saying “No”!  I’m guessing not many people bother with this little formality based on my experience this morning.

I finally walked out at 10am, €70 lighter but with our official Taxa de Farolagem e Balizagem in my hand having paid our light dues. The skies were darkening, rain was starting to fall, thunder was getting louder and there was the occasional flash of lightning. Time to dash back to the boat for breakfast!